Over lunch recently, a friend casually mentioned that her nails hurt when they’re bare: “They just don’t feel right without gel polish on them,” she told me. “It’s like they ache.”
At first, I brushed it off, but then I remembered how alien my own nails felt after getting my builder gel removed a few weeks before. I couldn’t wash my hair, type, or use my phone without wincing. It wasn’t just that my nails were naked; they felt exposed. It got me thinking — have we become too reliant on gel polish to the point where our nails don’t feel like our nails without it?
A quick Google search confirms that my friend and I aren’t alone in experiencing this strange sensation. TikTok user Melodee Rose Miller describes her bare nails as feeling “so disgusting” after removing polish, while Sincerely Her jokes that undone nails make her feel “sick to her stomach”. Meanwhile, in the r/RedditLacqueristas thread on Reddit, one user asks why their nails feel sore without polish — sparking a handful of comments from people who totally get it.
Like me, countless others struggle to give their nails a break for more than a few weeks before giving in to the urge for a fresh set. Could this dependence on gel polish be considered an addiction of sorts?
Can you be addicted to gel nails or BIAB?
If social media is any indication, “gel polish addiction” is a burgeoning topic. But is it really addiction? The Cambridge Dictionary defines “addiction” as “an inability to stop doing or using something, especially something harmful”, with drugs and alcohol as examples. Gel manicures, however, are not mentioned. Today, though, the word is used more casually, with people saying they’re addicted to anything from matcha lattes to TikTok.
Gel polish typically contains ingredients like polymers and monomers (which help it harden under UV light) and pigments for color, but none of these ingredients are inherently harmful or would cause dependency for your nails. But luxury manicurist and content creator Lois Elias is convinced that gel polish addition is a “real thing.” She explains, “There are a lot of people who don’t like the way that their hands look without gels; I had a new client recently who hadn’t seen their natural nails in over three years.”
Metta Francis, a London-based nail expert and founder of Nails by Mets, shares that potential clients have approached her for gel nails despite experiencing painful gel allergies or being advised against them for medical reasons. “It seems crazy — and the answer is, of course, no — but I guess that’s what happens when you have an addiction,” she says.
What exactly is inside gel polish?
Juanita Huber-Millet, founder and creative director at Townhouse, hasn’t heard the topic described as an “addiction” before, but notes that many Townhouse clients struggle with taking a break from their gels or Builder in a Bottle (BIAB). “For many of us, our nails are a significant part of our identity,” says Huber-Millet. “They help us control how we present ourselves to the world. Removing that marker can feel very exposing and confidence-shaking.”
Huber-Millet recalls a recent conversation with chartered psychologist Dr. Louise Goddard-Crawley, who confirmed that visual cues — particularly painted nails — are crucial for self-confidence. “Having manicured nails is a form of constant reinforcement,” Dr. Goddard-Crawley explained, adding, “it [creates] a feedback loop of positive self-perception.” This is before considering “nail privilege” — the idea that people with manicured nails are treated better by others.
Beyond boosting confidence, Huber-Millet says that her clients view manicures as a form of self-care, offering not only a moment of relaxation but a boost to overall well-being. Francis agrees: “Having your nails done is like pampering, and it’s something you can enjoy for a good few weeks,” she says. “Every time you look down at your nails, that perfect shade or bespoke nail art you chose can bring a smile to your face.”
It’s no surprise we keep chasing that high, but Huber-Millet isn’t convinced that “addiction” is the right word for regular self-care or a passion for healthy nails — unless, of course, your monthly manicure is putting you in debt.
Why do nails hurt — or feel weird — without any polish?
Regardless of semantics, one question remains: Why do nails sometimes feel sore or uncomfortable without polish — gel or otherwise?
“This can happen after gel polish removal if the [process] has been aggressive,” says Francis, but that’s not the sole reason. “If nails have been soaked in acetone, they become temporarily dehydrated and fragile,” she adds. “Damage and sensitivity can also be caused by over-filing or buffing the nails, for example, with a hand file or electric file, or by excessive pressure with metal hand tools.”
Any painful feeling should not be normalized, says Elias. “If this is the case, your nails have likely been thinned down over time with a drill, or the gel was forcefully removed, taking layers of natural nail with it,” she explains. Your gel polish should never be removed by drilling right down to the natural nail, says Elias: “It should always be soaked off using acetone following removal of 80 to 90% of the gel first. This will minimize the amount of time your nails are exposed to the acetone and any subsequent brittleness.”
Choosing a properly qualified nail technician is essential. However, even if your gel polish was removed correctly, Francis notes that your nails may still feel strange after weeks — or even months — of wearing gels, as they simply aren’t used to being “naked.” She adds, “They might even feel weaker because they no longer have a strong, protective coating.”
Do nails really need to “breathe”?
If you want to improve your nail health, should you take regular breaks?
“Unless you need to take a financial break or want to check in on the health of your natural nails, there’s no need to quit gel polish for any length of time,” says Huber-Millet. Francis agrees, as long as proper aftercare is followed, including daily cuticle oil application and not waiting too long between appointments.
Contrary to popular belief, nails don’t “breathe”, either, says Elias. “Most of the nutrients come from within the body,” she explains. “If your nails are in good condition, then there’s no need to take a break. However, if your nails are constantly feeling weak or being over-filed, then it might be a good idea to leave them bare for a while — and perhaps consider finding a new nail tech.”
What about BIAB? “BIAB was designed to be infilled, but I remove it every three to four sessions to start fresh and check the nail health,” says Elias. Repeatedly infilling nails is a job for a qualified nail technician. “It’s important that all lifting is removed,” says Elias. “If not, water can get trapped underneath the nail, causing a bacteria growth called pseudomonas.” As expected, TikTok is flooded with stories of botched infills and pseudomonas infections, also referred to as “greenies,” owing to the color. “Tinted or colored builder gels can mask a multitude of nail sins, so opt for a clear builder where possible,” suggests Elias.
What is the “naked” manicure?
The expert consensus is that constantly getting gel polish and BIAB isn’t inherently “bad” for your nails unless you’re allergic to them or they’re applied by an unqualified person. But we’re currently witnessing the rise of the “naked” manicure — essentially minimalist nail treatments that enhance the natural appearance of nails. Think clear and nude polish or nail tints, which boast just a hint of color.
On nail health, Francis and Huber-Millet recommend a professional IBX treatment, which helps toughen and protect the nail from within. “The product penetrates the nails to repair the keratin and immediately makes them feel stronger,” says Francis. For at-home use, Francis suggests a nail treatment or strengthener like Essie To The Rescue, $12, CND Rescue RxX, $20, or BioSculpture Ethos Lavender Base, $13.60.
The jury is still out on whether our love for gel polish can be considered an addiction, but one thing is clear: Above all, our nails serve as a form of personal expression and well-being. Ultimately, achieving a balance between nail health and a set you love is key.
This story was originally published on Refinery29 UK.
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